Let’s be honest for a second. In a fashion landscape that can sometimes feel a bit beige, there is one house that consistently demands we wake up, look closer, and dream bigger. I’m talking, of course, about Schiaparelli. Ever since Daniel Roseberry took the helm, the historic house has morphed into a living, breathing fever dream of high fashion. Elsa Schiaparelli famously merged art with clothing—shoutout to her legendary collaborations with Salvador Dalí—and today, that avant-garde, unapologetic spirit is alive, well, and completely dominating my mood boards.
Schiaparelli’s iconic gilded structural motifs. Source: Ben Montgomery / Getty Images
The clothes I adore most from the recent collections focus heavily on three major obsessions: wearable anatomy, the illusion of form, and pure structural drama.
First, the anatomical obsession is pure genius. Schiaparelli doesn’t just make accessories; they make the human body a luxury statement. I am fiercely in love with the gilded body parts that adorn everything from blazers to bags. The legendary golden lungs necklace turned the simple act of breathing into high art. Then you have the pierced ears resting on handbags, molded eyes serving as buttons, and golden toes gracing the tips of leather boots. It’s surrealism at its finest—challenging the viewer while looking impossibly chic.
Beyond the jewelry, there is something incredibly witty about the way Roseberry executes trompe l’œil, or optical illusion fashion. The leather jackets and corsets molded into hyper-realistic, muscular six-packs completely flip the traditional ideas of armor and femininity on their head. You also see this brilliant shadow play in their knitwear, where dresses are crafted to look as though they have liquid shadows or ribbons permanently cascading down the fabric. It is intelligent, playful fashion that forces you to look twice.
Sculptural, avant-garde silhouettes from the Schiaparelli haute couture runway. Source: Peter White / Getty Images
Finally, the silhouettes themselves deliver absolute, unmatched structural drama. If a garment doesn’t require its own zip code, it simply isn’t Schiaparelli. The house delivers a masterclass in proportion, featuring sharp, sky-high shoulders that radiate pure power. They balance this intensity with their signature keyhole cutouts, showing just a hint of skin framed by heavy, ornate gold hardware. It is the perfect blend of being intensely sensual yet completely untouchable.
What I adore most about these clothes isn’t just the flawless couture tailoring—it’s the absolute audacity. In a world currently saturated with quiet luxury, Schiaparelli is beautifully, magnificently loud. It reminds us that fashion isn’t just about getting dressed; it’s about telling a story, provoking a reaction, and having a bit of fun.